the fabric of time and space: komodo village - komodo island
Thursday, November 3, 2016, 6:16 pm
90°. Sun. The lengthy wood-planked pier signals change. I recall leaving this shore in the wake of a dinghy returning to the Evening Star. (October 24 On Board The Evening Star). In my arms, the teak Komodo dragon (pictured right, open air studio) hand-carved by Mr Nuhan, that I acquired during our interview (October 18th Legend of Komodo - below right). I hope to find him – say how much we admire his sculpture – and invite him to make carvings as part of the fabric of time and space.
(Above) My view from the deck of Salacia 2; tying up to the new pier. The village was not visible from the window (select Oct 15, 1999) as the plane descended through the cloud cover landing at the new Komodo Airport in Labuan, Bajo, Flores from Denpassar, Bali yesterday. Today's four-hour motorboat ride over crystal clear blue waters lessens my concerns of finding extensive coral bleaching as reported in the Great Barrier Reef to the east. But: waters washing up the once pristine sand beach surrounding the village are clogged and choked by plastic refuse ringing the shoreline. As are the freshwater streams from the hills: the sole source of drinking water now framed by cement. Then, by the forest, we watched women gracefully balance tubs on their heads back and forth to the village. Now, water is ported by boat from Labuan Bajo in plastic bottles.
Satellite dishes (below) powered by generators line every street in front yards of tin and cement houses because wood is no longer plentiful to construct traditional housing. Our “homestay” has mattresses rather than traditional bamboo mats. The ceramic-tiled Village mosque is newly enlarged; recorded sermons and calls to prayer are heard throughout the day and night
Signs of the past inhabit parts of the present: some villagers cook over fires set along walkways where goats, dogs, and chickens forage freely. We find Mr. Nuhan (pictured to my left with his wife) in his new family home: due to a fall, he can no longer walk up the steps of the wooden house I'd filmed him in. He remembers my visit and answers “yes” with his apprentice son-in-law Mr Sae (pictured left) to my proposal to collaborate. Many pictures are taken to celebrate our reunion. Then Mr. Sae takes us to the home of his brother-in-law to discuss the legend of Komodo (still-frame from recording).
The length of Visible Light is 13h 09m; the length of Day is 12h 25m.
2016, Hope reunited with Mr Nuhun, his wife, brother-in law, and family. her previous visit was in 1998.
Hand-carved teak Komodo Dragon by Mr. Nuhan, acquired (1998) by Hope, pictured in her studio (2018)
Legend of Komodo (video above) Time(space)
Interview with Komodo Villagers, Mr. NuHan and Vin (interpreter) with Hope Sandrow, Komodo Village 1998
Legend of Komodo
“One day long ago, a daughter of King Ara became pregnant, mystically, out of marriage,. As this would bring shame to the King’s family, his daughter fled from his kingdom into the dense forest of Ficus trees to give birth.
When her time came, she gave birth to two male babies: one human and the other a Komodo dragon. The Komodo, born with the ability to speak, asked his mother for a drink of water.
“My son, “ she answered, “ we must go on a long journey to find water to drink.” As she predicted, some time passed until they finally came to water. The mother, after tasting the water, said, “ How can we drink this water, it is so bitter?” The baby Komodo tasted the water despite his mother’s worries, and finding it to be good, asked his mother to try the water again. And, the mother now found the water to be as fresh and good tasting as her Komodo son said.
After a while, the Komodo asked his mother if they could take a journey to find a village to live in. And his mother answered, “We will go”. They traveled along the road and came upon an old couple, who did not have children of their own. The King’s daughter told them her story of the mystical pregnancy, and, of her son’s birth. “Sebayor, or the other world, is the name of my Komodo son.
The kindly couple took the King’s daughter and her two sons into their home and cared for them. After many months had passed, Sebayor said, “Mother, it is time for us to find the village.”
The King’s daughter thanked the old couple for their kindness, and with her sons continued the long journey until they came upon the village. The mother and her sons were tired and, thirsty and asked the villagers for some water to refresh themselves. “Our water is bitter,” they answered.
Sebayor went to the water. And after he drank from it, the villagers found it no longer to be bitter but fresh. They welcomed the mother and her sons into the village of Komodo and gave them a home.
“Mother,” Sebayor said, “ You no longer have to feed me as I can take care of myself. Please, please take care of your human son.” With that, Sebayor bid farewell to his mother and baby human brother and left their home, disappearing into the depths of the forest. Sebayor has come to mean “the other world”, a mystical or different world.”
The Legend of Komodo, as told by Mr. Nu Han, Master Komodo Dragon Wood Carver, at his home and workshop in Komodo Village.
“Some people, who trust in the Legend of Komodo, and who go into the forest and meet a Komodo Dragon, will say, “ Sebayor, Sebayor! We wish to pass.” And I have heard that the Komodo Dragon will turn away, letting them go forward, unharmed. Even to this day, there is still respect between us.”
The Legend of Komodo, interpreted into English by Vin, Guide, and Interpreter, from the Island of Flores.
Photos with Hope Sandrow by Jeremy Rhodes Grosvenor.
The fabric of time and space
1998 commissioned by the Nature Conservancy